Saturday, December 12, 2009

Sept. 09 Gary Junction Road

September 09, Gibson & Great Sandy Desert,
 Gary Junction Road

A chance meeting (again) of Bushtracker owners Nick & Jenny Thompson in May 2008 at Quongdong Point north of Broome, put in motion our trip from Port Hedland to Port Lincoln via Alice Springs on the Gary Junction Road. More on the road/s built by Len Beadell's Gunbarrel construction crew later.

Trip Planning - Port Hedland to Alice Springs

Permits are required to transit the Communities -Permits are free, we had no request to view our permits at any of the Communities.

Two permits required W.A. & N.T. communities, both permits can be obtained online.
W.A. permits obtained from www.dia.wa.gov.au/land/permits, NT from http://www.clc.org.au/ follow the links.

If your plans are to transit the W.A. communities within 2 days, the permit is issued immediately. W.A. transit time of 3 days or more can take several weeks to get the permit.
N.T. permits issued immediately and valid for 21 days.

It is adviseable to contact the communities you anticipate to use for diesel fuel, to ensure they have adaquate supplies. We used the following, Punmu $3.00/ltr - 08-91769006 John, Kunawarritji $3.20/ltr - 08-91769040 Graham, and Kiwirrkurra $2.80/ltr - 08-89568615 Karen or Tim. Petrol not available at most remote communities. Diesel also avaliable from Kintore Store - shire run (no one answered the phone) and Mt Liebig, thus plenty of fuel as long they have supplies.

Trip Details

Distance - Paved K's - 494, Dirt K's - 1,320, Total K's = 1814

Location - Traverses between the sandhills of the Great Sandy and Gibson Deserts, classified as an 'A' class desert due to it's remoteness - thus you need to be self contained.

Road conditions - Well formed, occasionally graded road. Over the 1,320k's of dirt we had time to categorize the road, as follows -
Pedestrian Crossing = stop to 10kph, we had only 10 stop and walk speed type corrugations.
Speed Humps = 10 to 20kph, you could see coming as you approached the darker ridge rock.
Road Works = 20 to 40kph, generally comfortable over the corrugations & rock topped road.
Ripple Strips = 40 & above kph, good sand and gravel with small corrugations.
We only encountered several sections of soft sand less than 1 km in length just after departing Jupiter Well.

Tires - We used tire pressure's of 30psi all round and found this to be a comfortable ride, no punctures or side wall tire damage.

On the 'Dirt' average speed - 40.8kph, driving time 33.7hrs. Overall 55kph & 42hrs driving.

Our trip started from South Hedland to Carawine Gorge via Great Northern Hwy, Marble Bar,
Rippon Hills , and Carawine Gorge Roads - 362km.
Telfer Mine and Punmu Roads, to Punmu Community, Wapet Road to Kunawaritji Community, cross over Canning Stock Route near Well 33 onto Jenkins Road to corner of Gary Hwy and Gary Junction Road - 502km.
Gary Junction Road via Jupiter Well, Kiwirrkurra & Papunya Communities to Tanami Road 818km & 132km to Shell Servo on Nth Stuart Hwy / Alice Springs on the black top section of the Tanami Road, and Stuart Hwy.

Now you have the details let the trip photo's and 'LOG' begin!!


Departing on time 0700hrs from my brothers place in South Hedland. Hopefully before the wind get's up. We had been watching the weather map and possible head winds.


An hour later we are pushing into stiff head winds, with long road trains passing us!




The ensuing dust storms soon followed!


About half way between Port Hedland and Marble Bar - Breakfast and coffee stop on a large level area with a compost toilet. A track leads off to a creek, suitable for small vehicles to camp under the trees.


Marble Bar the HOTTEST town in Australia. 184km and topped up with fuel.


Still pushing into head winds


Carawine Gorge - magic spot!

13km dirt road into Carawine Gorge

In our exuberance to get near the water______!


As we had not lowered our tire pressure yet (all black top until the Gorge turn off) plus the river rocks were super hot and slippery at 1300hrs, we were not going to get anywhere near the water!

20 minutes, forward & reversing backed us out of there! Moral of the story -always check the ground conditions before proceeding!


Reconnoitre of the Gorge later found a great camp, with a hard road to the water.

Reports of 'Barra' in the Pool - later confirmed by the evidence of large fish scales on the pool bank.

Carawine Gorge photo's






We camped on the high ground on the end of the airstrip.



More Carawine Gorge photo's







Carawine Gorge camp on the end of the airstrip - Helicopter landing pad and fuel drum delivery mat!


Cyclone Laurence crossed the coast at 80 Mile Beach on the 21st Dec. 09 and dumped a lot of water in this region, thus the land scape will have changed now.

As we did not get close to the water we decided to keep moving and hopefully beat the head winds still forecast for the day.




Graders on the Telfer Mine, 104k's to the Punmu turn off. Good road to Punmu.




Big day! 144km's enough of the head winds


Most of the camels we saw (48) were west of Punmu.


Off early on the 28th as we only had two day's to transit the communities.

This bore was sunk July 1994, and the new windmill and tank installed by Sam & Jack Bennet May 2006. Good water!


By mid morning the wind had swung around and we had a strong WESTERLY blowing us along as forecast. As it happened it continued until we got onto the Tanami Road. Dust storms followed us.




Top end of the lake and a good camp site off the road. Do not drive on the LAKE!


As these lads did three weeks earlier. Thought they would do a few spin outs on the lake.
Well and truly bogged. John at Punmu dragged them out. A sports SUV with a suspect spare tire, no vehicle recovery gear, limited supplies and heading down to Windy Corner = MADNESS!

Rent a camel.


Good road!




















Image stolen from (John - Punmu Community store manager, among other things) Johns BLOG can be found at http://www.archiearchive.wordpress.com/ Ærchie is, as is proper for all writers, a nomdayplume. I also have a nomnightplume for after-hours activities.
Old enough to know better, I look on the world of humanity with a jaundiced eye, on the natural world with a digital camera and on books with delight. I also look for dragons.
Having had ambitions of being an actual writing writer, I continue to have all the attributes of a writer. Thinking, plotting, researching and procrastinating! At sixtummmmmmmm years of age, I may finally know enough about the world to write a few words.
To see some of them, please visit the pages above. Poetry, archies musings and Travelling North all contain some of my writing.
I also post some of my photographs because they are fun, both in the taking and the sharing.

Punmu Community from the sandhill - 100 to 200 residence depending who's on 'walkabout'
We only sighted one local and three Tradies fixing buildings.




Vintage truck at Punmu Community turn off.


Sue and one of the Tradies behind John Ex-school teacher at the community, now running the store and fuel supplies. 450km from Marble Bar to Punmu, fuel $3/ltr. Fuel supplied from Port Hedland.

We asked the folks at each community we refueled at, what they missed most & what is the funniest or weiredest request they have had.

John missed - live theatre and going to the WACCA (to watch cricket) No real funnies or weired stuff, but frequently asked how deep the lake gets? It just get's wet & boggy, then he related the story of the camel that tried to short cut across the lake after some rain - bogged and took three day's to sink. How ever the do play 'GOLF' on the lake.


The tail wind was up and the dust followed, this section of about 20k's was a cross wind but on a great road, recently graded.

This section of road from the Kidson Track turn off to Kunawarritji - 105k's was the worst overall section of road for the entire trip, being hard rock ground and deep corrugations.


Not all trailer's make it!


Punmu to Kunawarritji = 184k's


The community is 4k's from the Canning Stock Route, near Well 33.

A top up of fuel (38ltr) @ $3.2/ltr was all that was need and we could have got away with out it, but in remote desert locations, get fuel at every opportunity.

Graham running the store with his wife seemed to busy doing nothing to have a chat. But did get the things missed most. The 'WIFE' going out to dinner and a quite drink or two. Graham had every thing and missed nothing!. The funniest - Swiss tourist wanted to know where the 'COFFEE SHOP' was.


Look closely for and at the Canning Stock Route Well 33 sign - 3 mile, that's how long the sign's been there!




Great signage!


One of the first books I ever read in my formative years was Len Beadells - Beating About the Bush, and was fasinated, now I have finally made it to one of the roads he poineered - you BEAUTY!

Len Beadell From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Leonard (Len) Beadell OAM BEM FIEMS (b. West Pennant Hills, NSW 1923 - May 12, 1995) was a surveyor, roadbuilder (some 6500km), bushman, artist and author, responsible for opening up the last remaining isolated desert areas (some 2.5 million square kilometers) of central Australia in the 1940s and 1950s. Len is sometimes called "the last true Australian explorer".

Gunbarrel Highway


Beadell's first road was the Gunbarrel Highway, so named after the "gunbarrel crew" which was assembled under Len - he said he always tried whenever possible to make the road as straight as a gunbarrel.

The road was built using initial reconnaissance and surveying by Len (often working alone) by pushing through raw scrub with a Land Rover, using Celestial navigation for latitude and longitude measurements. Once the line of the road had been decided, a bulldozer followed to cut a raw track, clearing away the spinifex and mulga scrub as needed, and forming a basic level track. This was then graded using a standard road grader.

The Gunbarrel Highway was pushed through from east to west starting at the Stuart Highway to the west of Alice Springs, due west to the Rawlinson Ranges, skirting south of the Gibson Desert, via the mission at Warburton, to connect to an existing road at Carnegie Station. Total distance was over 1,400 km. Len's stories of the building of this road are told in the first of his numerous books Too Long in the Bush, a reading of which will give some insight into the incredible feat that building this road was. Len suffered near starvation, many mechanical breakdowns, countless punctures and other mishaps, all in searing desert heat, but seemingly took it all in his stride with good humour.



We made it to the corner of the Gary Hwy & Gary Junction road. With a good tail wind all day we wanted to make the most of it - 358km's, average speed 47.4kph, 8hrs 21 minutes driving.
After that drive a couple of beers went down well, followed by lamb chops and veggies!




Found Nick's 2008 enrty in the visitor's book


We added our own entry, being the 15oth for 09! Now being a short cut - well if you are going Port Hedland to Port Augusta via the Nullarbor, it's about 658k's shorter via the Gary Junction Road. To Port Lincoln it's only 154k's shorter .

But who care's, it was, and is a great drive!


Not sure about the 'HIGHWAY', it's looks like a TRACK!





This chair look like the same vintage 1963 - galvanised tin arm rest, not much moulded plastic around in the 60's.

Later Roads

Following the Gunbarrel Highway, Len built further roads by the same method, naming most of them after his family. The Connie Sue Highway for his daughter, the Gary Highway and Gary Junction Road for his son, and the Anne Beadell Highway for his wife. These roads further opened up the inhospitable country, for a variety of purposes. In addition, Len surveyed and chose the location for the Giles Meteorological Station.





Camp at the Corner of the Gary Hwy and Junction Road.

Yes, as keen golfer's we had to watch to US PGA Championship and Fedex play off. Tiger won the Fedex - guess we will not be seeing 'Tiger' or has he morphed into a 'CHEETAH'? on a golf course any time soon?

How about today's technology, Len Beadell was out here with only the essentials, bush bashing in a Land Rover, and using Celestial Navigation and compass readings to mark the roads through the deserts. 46 years on we come through towing a 5 star camp, satellite television and GPS navigation, plus an EPIRB if we really get into life threatening trouble!




Small spinifex fire, thats pretty well all that's out here. Although the ridge lines held
some scrub and larger trees.

Great camp in amongst the desert Sheoaks. As the Satellite photo indicates it's remoteness and the road cuts between the sand hills. Top right of the photograph was some of the soft sand we encountered.


150k's from Gary Hwy to Jupiter Well, 3hrs 12min, Average 48.2kph, a short and relaxing drive for the morning, the wind had got up to 25 -30kph and 'HOT' so camped up for the day.

Good quality water!






Found the orginal well, re-dug October 1985. The well was named after the Planet Jupiter which was reflecting on the well water when they were taking an Astro fix of it's location.


Some of the Sheoaks - good size tree's.

This guy was a poser - will update his name later!!

Just after leaving Jupiter Well we came across the only camper trailer for the entire trip. No one around so we kept rolling. We later meet up with them (Bill, Karen & Jack) at the W.A. & N.T. Border - Birdies out looking for the Princess Parrots - which they found.

Princess Parrot From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Polytelis alexandrae(Gould, 1863)


The colourful Princess Parrot, Polytelis alexandrae, is an Australia bird of the parrot family. Its name was given in honour of Princess Alexandra of Denmark, who later married the Prince of Wales Edward VII and eventually became the Queen of England. Other names for the species include: Queen Alexandra Parrot (or Parakeet), Alexandra's Parakeet, Princess of Wales Parakeet, Rose-throated Parakeet, and Spinifex Parrot. Their plumage is mostly green with a pink throat, bluish crown and rump, and bright green shoulders. The tail is long and narrow, They are becoming quite rare in the wild and their numbers seem to be dwindling








A couple of Len's Gunbarrel Hwy crew tree markings.


The corrd's above just incase you need a new 'DUNNY', the water tanks seemed in good condition still!

Along with trailers - some caravans do not make IT!

Now you have heard 'needle in a 'HAY STACK' How can you lose a needle this size? But it happened! 5 minutes scratching around to find it!


No shortage of these on the road, run the wheel till it's 'BUGGERED' we may get home before it self destructs. You could fill up a 6 x 4 trailer with rims. Not to mention the wrecked vehicles, predominatley within 50k's of the communities.



Jupiter Well to Kiwirrkurra 132k's, Avg 51.2kph, 2hrs 38min. a good section of road.


We duly reported to the office and they thought we were their 'RELIEF CREW' they were expecting. They were soon disappointed, we just wanted fuel!

Kiwirrkurra, Western Australia -Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Kiwirrkurra is a small community in Western Australia in the Gibson Desert, 1,200 km east of Port Hedland and 850 km west of Alice Springs.[1] It has been described as the most remote community in Australia.

It was established around a bore in the early 1980s as a Pintupi outstation and became a permanent community in 1983. It was one of the last areas with normadic Aborginals until about that time.

Although situated in a desert, it is in a low-lying area without drainage. It was flooded in early 2000 and further flooding between 3 and 5 March 2001 forced the evacuation of its population of 170, first briefly to Kintore and then for four weeks to NORFORCE's base in Alice Springs and finally to Morapoi Station in the Goldfields of Western Australia, 2,000 km SSW of Kiwirrkurra. The stay in Alice Springs and Morapoi brought the community into contact with alcohol for the first time and led to violence and social disruption. By late 2002 the community had moved back to Kiwirrkurra. Despite their displacement, on 19 October 2001 the Kiwirrkurra people gained native title over 42,900 sq km of the surrounding land and waters

On 19 June 2009 a 26 year old man from Kiwirrkurra was the first Australian to die of the 2009 flu pandemic; he was initially treated in Alice Springs hospital but he died in Royal Adelaide Hopsital.


And 'FUEL' we got from our friend Max @ $2.80/ltr.


No shortage of dog's. The local's eat and run, nuke their pie/s and scoff it down before someone wants to share it.

Had a chat to Tim running the store he was busy. Things he missed most - His three daughters,
the wierdest request - a saddle for a horse! (out here it could be a camel saddle)


These's folks had been coming out to the remote communities for 3 year, performing their circus acts. Checkout http://www.circosis.com.au/


A bit hard to read. The truck burnt out on it's return from town. The reference to 'HOT WATER LAID ON' As the truck was burning Len shot a hole in the now 'Hot' water tank for a cuppa tea!



The burnt out 'RATION TRUCK'. A Commer military 4 x 4


Map's in our BT with the name of this outcrop marked, TBA.


Day 3, the strong tail winds are still with us! 30 - 35kph.




13k's before the N.T. border. Already being stripped, radio, seats, wheels. Next day a vehicle trailer passed us perhaps heading to collect it. Still onboard, new radiator, HDJ80 motor, factory fitted turbo, Warn winch, and heaps of other stuff. (we are already fully loaded)




The trees indicate the W.A. & N.T. border.




Sue's not sure! seems to be less flies on the WA side!


We were going to camp here, but the wind was blowing so strong the van was still rocking and rolling tucked in behind the building. Plus it was stinking hot. Ham sanga, and we kept rolling in air conditioned comfort to Sandy Blight Junction.


Sandy Blight Junction - 328k's from Jupiter Well. Avg 46.9kph, drive time 7hr 14min.
A good drive with the strong tail wind.



Only 471k's to Alice Springs from here!




Sandy Blight Junction marker

Woma Python, also known as Sand python or Ramsay’s python, (Aspidites ramsayi)There are five populations of Woma python, each slightly different in appearance.The Woma python is one of the fifteen different species of python endemic to Australia. It is now a threatened species and is no longer found in one third of its former range.
Woma pythons can grow up to 2.7 metres in length. They spend all their time on the ground and when threatened, will raise their head off the ground in an ‘S-shaped’ pose. Like all reptiles, Woma pythons shed their skin as they grow. This is called sloughing.
Breeding-Woma pythons lay their eggs anywhere hidden and humid enough so that the eggs and baby snakes don’t dry out. Suitable locations for nests include rabbit warrens, hollow logs or even under an old piece of corrugated iron. The female stays coiled around the clutch of 4 to 28 eggs for 50 to 70 days until they hatch. When the baby snakes hatch they are fully independent from their parents.
Habitat and DistributionWoma pythons are found in sandy arid habitats including desert sand hills and dunes as well as in a variety of other subtropical, temperate, arid and semi-arid regions. Habitat destruction is the most likely cause of the Woma python’s decline with clearance of their natural habitat to make way for agriculture and predation by foxes and cats.
Diet -The body of a Woma python is very strong and flexible. If you held a Woma python by the tail it would be strong enough to raise its head all the way up to the same height. Not all snakes can do this. Woma pythons have this ability because they are constricting snakes. This means they kill their prey by wrapping their body so tightly around it that the animal cannot breathe. When the prey is dead, the python opens it mouth very wide by dislocating its jaw and swallows the prey whole. It won’t need another meal for at least two weeks.
Large Woma python’s may eat rabbits. When prey is caught in a burrow the space is often not large enough for the python to effectively constrict the prey with its body. To combat this problem the snake uses its nose to push the animal against the side of the burrow, strangling it that way.Woma pythons use the end of their narrow tail as a lure to attract prey. They wriggle the tip of their tail slowly, making it look like potential prey for other animals, catching them in their mouth if they venture close enough.

Papunya - no fuel required as we had 60ltrs on the 'A' frame. Just as well as the place was a dust bowl. It was that bad we actually stopped in (off) the main street to wait for the dust storm to settle.
Papunya, Northern Territory -From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Papunya is a small Indigenous Australian community of about 299 people roughly 240 km northwest of Alice Springs. Papunya is on restricted Aboriginal land and requires a permit to enter or travel through.

The Australian government built a water bore and some basic housing at Papunya in the 1950s to provide room for the increasing populations of people in the already-established Aboriginal communities and reserves. The community grew to over a thousand people in the early 1970s and was plagued by poor living conditions, health problems, and tensions between various tribal and linguistic groups. These festering problems led many people, especially the Pintupi, to move further west closer to their traditional country. After settling in a series of outstations, with little or no support from the government, the new community of Kintore was established about 250 km west of Papunya in the early 1980s.
It was during the 1970s that a striking and unique blend of ancient and modern art styles began to emerge in Papunya and by the 1980s had begun to attract national and then international attention, now commanding a proud place on world art markets.
It's always the way - just when you need the camera, Lithium battery dies!

1315 hrs, 14k's from the Tanami Road, and we have just travelled over 1,000k's through 'DRY' Communities and the Remote Highway Traffic Police pull us over for a breatherlizer, drivers licence & registration check - we still don't believe it happened!


These nest all around our camp site.


2k's from the Tanami Road, grid & fence line, good place to camp, refuel from the jerry can's and pump up our tire as it's black top to Alice from here.


Quite camp for the night


Fuel road tanker next to the cattle grid as we departed in the early AM. Had a chat, usually has a triple, 90,000ltrs, dropped one off already. He is taking this load to Papunya & Kintore. Two trucks from Harker in South Australia run full time, taking fuel to all the communites as far a Kunawaritji, and north along the Tanami.


That's the END of the 'GARY JUNCTION ROAD' trip.

'Great drive and will do it again.'